Later that same day, we hurtled, like spies in an old Bond flick, in our rubber raft, towards The Devil’s Crown: a ring of black volcanic daggers piercing the graying sky! Somewhere buried in its treacherous name, the cool whip of the wind, and the thunderous crash of waves, I shivered: what am I doing? Thirty feet of water between me and the ocean floor, on only my second attempt at snorkeling! At least I was strapped with a life jacket, and wouldn’t drown, I hoped! Over the roar of motor and waves, our guide called out, “I watched you all snorkel at the beach and you’re not very good so we’ll start on the more protected side of the Crown.” Well, Duh! I have no gold medals in snorkeling, but our European shipmates grumbled. Laughter is a good way to combat the fear of having to plunge into Satan’s jagged hat. With a great display of ungraceful hugging and clinging to the side of our life raft, I dipped into the water, testing my buoyancy. Then, slowly, I peeked at what mysteries lingered beneath, a deliberate dangling marionette. Colorful living stars clutched on their dark volcanic perches as I hyperventilated through my snorkel. With flippers pumping I steered away from sharp rocks to a deeper world where fish elongated like slithering, swimming pencils, and shadows were sting rays floating through space. One slid just below me on massive dark wings! I lingered, awestruck by its grace, until an icy blast of salt water shot down my throat, ripping me from my underwater dream. Drawn in by the other worldly peace below, I calmed becoming one with my wobbly liquid world. I made friends with large bug-eyed neon fish, and giggled at the shimmering school of silver slivers shimmering past me. The round body and flippers of a sea turtle stayed just beyond reach but I saw its quiet timeless shape. I drifted for an eternity, between the thunderous clash of white waves, smashing against the Devil’s Crown, and the cool calm glassy stillness below. A piece of me is still there, in limbo, forever circling the Devil’s Crown…
Snorkling Galapagos!
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